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"Finding the balance between school work, training and of course - the ladies"

Hi I'm Sammy. A 16 year old punter from the West Midlands who keeps falling off the easy part of Mecca. I am currently competing for the British youth and senior lead team. However being 16-nearly 17- means, unfortunately, I can't just climb full time and go all out dirtbag like Alex honnold. I am currently doing my A levels at Hagley RC in chemistry, PE and Geography (colouring in). Finding the balance between school work, training and of course - the ladies ... can be a tough task at only 16. There are only 168 hours in a week, 30 of which have to be spent at school - no matter how much you complain. Another 63 of these hours...

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How do you make the most out of your climbing and training sessions, when leading a busy life?

I am a husband, Father to two amazing boys and I work full time. It can definitely be challenging to keep up my strength in the midst of a busy family life! I guess it all comes down to priorities, how much time you have and what your goals are. I have made a commitment to put my family first, therefore I try to fit climbing in whenever I can outside of this.Consequently over the years I have tested and tried many different training workouts to find what actually works for me and how I can get the most out of the little time I have.I find it much easier to set myself a goal so then I can train specifically for that goal....

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Tash Allcock - British lead comp.

Anyone that knows me, knows that I am predominately a boulderer and up until a few months ago wouldn’t ever tie into a rope….why would I do that when I was scared of falling, and could do 8 hard moves on a boulder problem in comparison to 25 to 30 moves. Things changed for me after I entered the BUCS lead climbing championships and finished 4 th , I thought maybe if I trained properlyI could actually do well. So after getting a new belay partner, re learning how to tie in and clip I started training endurance and getting PUMPED….which is not my favourite feeling at all, I mean who in their right mind enjoys that!! Training is never easy, but it is always most...

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Thats the beautiful thing about climbing.

Remember your first time in a climbing wall? Finding a certain route so challening that you became fixated on it. So fixated in fact, you had failed to notice the flaps of skin, now dangling like crayon sharpenings from your shredded fingers. Fixated to the point, you lay awake in bed that evening thinking, "I should have just stood up and grabbed it"; whilst kicking your significant other as you subconsciously renact the moves. Unless you are super human (or a Child) I feel its fairly safe to say, the majority of us sucked the first time we went climbing. Even if we didn't, we felt we did because that one route, had that one hold, you just couldn't fathom...

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